Leadership for Antarctica

Departure Reflections

16th March, 2010

As we navigated around monolithic, tabular icebergs—remnants of the former Larsen B Ice Shelf—many of us pondered the effects of climate change. Here, in the Antarctic Peninsula, rapid, harsh, and complex changes are interrupting fragile systems. Cleverly entitled, “Krill Bill,” this morning’s presentation introduced many participants to the vital role of krill. Each year 34 to 43 million tonnes of krill are consumed by some of the world’s largest species: whales. In recent years, however, krill biomass has been reduced by 50% to 80%—in large part, due to the melting sea ice on which these species depend. As the water temperature warms, salp—an aquatic species typically found in warmer regions—move in, feeding on much the phytoplankton upon which the krill depend. This situation leaves the future of many species higher up in the food chain in jeopardy.

Shortly after lunch, we loaded ourselves into the zodiacs. As we bid farewell to continental Antarctica, we prepared to gape at and be stunned by iceberg architecture. Little did we know that these giants would serve only as a backdrop for what would happen next.

A pod of orca appeared in the distance…and we followed. Respectfully keeping our distance, we watched as they surfaced and resurfaced. Minutes later we realized we were in the midst of a hunt! As seals and penguins were tossed through the air, we speculated that the pod was training younger Orca in the hunt, as the game was not killed quickly. Within moments we were surrounded with the scattered whales probing the Crabeater seals now fearfully perched on flimsy icebergs.

Each day our guides and team leaders have told us how fortunate we have been on this trip. We have had penguins waddle up to us and leopard seals skim by our zodiacs. We have seen an unprecedented amount leopard seal kills. We have seen glaciers calving and humpback whales sky-hopping. As of today, we can add an orchestrated orca hunt of seals and penguins to our list. Many people wait years or even lifetimes to witness what we have witnessed in the past few days. Antarctica has revealed itself to us and the only thing that could possibly make this trip any better is our own ability to deliver on our commitments when we return home.

____________________________________________

Whales, Whales, Whales

16th March, 2010

Whales to the right!
Whales to the left!
Whales everywhere!

It’s not very often anyone can say this, but today we did! All six zodiacs. Oh what a morning! Talk about Graham delivering, this was beyond everyone’s expectations, even from experiences of repeat visits by the crew. This whole trip has been a packed display of gentoo penguins, chinstrap penguins, fur seals, crabeater seals, orcas and now minke and playful humpback whales. We’re running out of things to see, or are we? Just when you think the day could not get any better, the next one tops it off. And today we were treated by whales just parading around our zodiacs, spraying all over our lenses as the photographic sessions went berserk for two hours! My zodiac driver Carolina looked as if she was about to cry from excitement, very cool.

I’m in love with the ocean. After watching the movie ‘Mermaids’ with Daryl Hannah transforming into a mermaid in the bathtub, I used to take long baths waiting for my legs to grow into a tail when I was a little girl. After that failed, I took up diving. Nothing can express how I felt today in the zodiac – inches away from the humpback whales – as they became more excited from my excitement. It was different from the times in Hong Kong when I had been on a boat preparing to collect a carcass because a whale had wondered into a harbour. These whales here are free and the way things should be.

A whale of a time

My life’s been cruising
Things have been sailing along
My heart’s desire
Why can’t we all get along?
My body’s aching for action
I want everyone to know of your attraction
My soul sings
When you blow some steam
My mind goes on the dial
As you do the dance of the wild

____________________________________________

The Bristol Boys

13th March, 2010

We’re Alex, Tom, Kev and Joe, the Bristol University Team. We’re all in our 2nd year of study, with everyone studying in the field of economics, apart from Kev who is a mechanical engineer. We’ve known about the 2041 expeditions since last summer, when Tom entered us into npower’s ‘future leaders challenge’. The mission statement of the competition was to run a campaign to promote sustainable living to as many people as possible, and in a new and interesting way. The prize: a place for each of us on the 2041 expedition. So with too good an opportunity to miss, we set to work on our project.

We started thinking about the message we wanted to send. After seeing so much electricity wastage in halls of residence in our first year we were quick to realize that a movement to try and reduce this waste would be central. And so we began to devise a “Turn Off Bristol” campaign with our main target audience being students.

One thing that Bristol really lacks is an efficient and cost effective bus into Uni. So we soon realized that, if we could run a service, we would have an amazing advertising platform to base our campaign around. After many frustrating meetings and dead end phone calls our perseverance paid off and we managed to raise funding for the campaign from Bristol University, npower and Dominoes pizza. Along with the bus, we hired billboards around the city and turned an iconic building green for the campaign. The bus itself was a moving billboard, completely covered in our design and on board the bus we gave out flyer packs containing our own energy saving tips with the bus timetable on the reverse side. They also contained information on local initiatives that promoted sustainability as well as national campaigns such as the 1010 campaign. During the two weeks over 250 commitments to the 1010 campaign were made and we collected nearly 400 questionnaires to help us understand student opinions and habits. We took advantage of the onboard sound system to play quick messages between songs to get our message across to the passengers.

With the project we won npower’s competition and so our place on the expedition. We’re all still struggling to believe that we are in Antarctica, and know that we are going to learn a lot from the leadership/ environment courses involved. We’re planning on taking a lot more back with us than photos.

____________________________________________

Landing on the Continent 

12th March, 2010

Woke up to a mirror like sea scattered with bergy bits and brash ice. Paradise Bay in all its glory.
Today we stepped on Antarctica – the continent – for the first time! And thus history was made [possibly] with Kripa the first Nepali, Emmanuelle the first Congalese and Narelle and Malcolm the first indigenous Australians!

We landed at the Argentinian base at Almirante Brown – where historically the base doctor burnt down a building when he was told at the last minute he had to winter there for a second year!

We hiked up the hill through the snow to a rock outcroping high above Paradise Bay. So peaceful to sit, reflecting and absorbing the beauty. Twenty minutes to hike up, two minutes to slide down on our bums screaming wildly.

John Luck, master cameraman took us through some of his photos and shared some hints and tips – wow…huge respect! The ship then nosed down Anvard Bay, kindly circling a queen of an iceberg so we could practice our newly acquired camera skills. Dropping anchor in Neko Harbour, we did our second expedition of the day. An afternoon of drama: carving glacier bits crashing into the sea, our first Weddell Seal massacring a penguin under our noses and Minke whales out in the bay. From a high vantage point, we sat and watched that enormous jigsaw puzzle of a glacier – so majestic.

Down on the shore, our little penguin friends carried on in their penguin way. Next, camping briefing – a masterclass on how to instill fear in the hearts of fifty not so happy campers. Up on top deck we learnt how to pitch a tent, keep warm and survive a night on the ice. Later that night, dropped off by the 2041 team, ten little tents covered the tiny island that was to be our home for the night. Looking back across the water to our ship, thoughts of warm beds quickly disappeared as the excitement of the experience of camping on the

Antarctic ice took over. Hayley Warner led an epic sing song with contributions from Aaron on the harmonica, and expert rapping from Eric, our South African skipper.

____________________________________________

Entering Antarctica

11th March, 2010

Tuesday began with a normal breakfast. Graham wrapped up breakfast by making the usual daily announcements. These announcements were in regards to the procedures that had to be followed regarding bio-security. The bio-security announcement focused primarily on what the participants and staff had to do in order to prevent the introduction of non-native species to Antarctica.

Following breakfast and the announcements there was a presentation by Derrick, the naturalist on board. This presentation educated the participants on various species of whales. Participants who were present will no doubt be able to have a more enriched understanding of the species of Antarctica and their role within this exotic and unique ecosystem.

The bio-security check went off without a hitch. Graham and the other staff members were able to explain to the participants what had to be done once returning from the excursions to Antarctica. Several minutes into the briefing an aging elephant seal was spotted on the front deck. The staff is uncertain as to how this aquatic nuisance came to be on board the ship. Several attempts were made to detain the deranged beast, all of which were ultimately ineffective. The seal was finally detained in the presentation room thanks to several staff members repeatedly shouting “Bronco 5” at this old and possibly senile animal. This ambassador of the Antarctic was last seen in the presentation room mumbling to himself about “Layers, layers, layers”.

After this unforeseen series of events the participants were given some free time on the ship, and then lunch was served. After a buffet for lunch, there was a period of free time. Following this Graham had a brief seminar on ice, explaining how it is formed, and what its role is. Following this presentation, the participants sighted several icebergs and whales. This was truly incredible and for many people was their first time seeing an iceberg. “Seeing that iceberg I knew it was the first of many that would blow my mind, just to see it and to know we were entering the Antarctic, tomorrow we will be on the zodiacs for the first time, surrounded by icebergs”- Christine Gerritse. The experience was a fascinating and awe-inspiring occurrence, which truly defined the day and foreshadows our arrival in the Antarctic.

Latitude: 6347 S
Longitude: 06112 W 

____________________________________________

First day of the Drake

10th March, 2010

Despite blue skies, crisp air, and relatively calm waters, by nightfall the Drake had already taken a number of victims with several team members struggling to find their sea legs. Following sightings of the black-browed albatross, Derrick ‘The Bird Man’ gave an engaging talk on the region’s birds – some of which live to the age of 60 only entering sexual maturity at the age 20.

Patched up, pilled up and ready for action, the team returned to the ‘vomitorium’ once more for talks on the Dos and Don’ts of the Antarctic, the possible threats of tourism and the importance of the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators (IAATO).

During a session on the feminine dynamic of sustainability (in honour of International Women’s Day), some hour-glass dolphins came swam alongside of the Akademik Ioffe in celebration.

To undergo a real ice-breaker we all participated in the ‘Two Minute’ talk on ourselves, addressing the rest of the team we discovered how and why we are all here.

After three days on the expedition we are gaining an insight into the vital role this unbelievable continent plays in our lives. Already our course has been altered twice, once due to expanding sea ice off the coast and once again to skirt around an approaching storm. Our fate now lies in the hands of the experienced Russian crew and the sympathy of the legendary Drake Passage.

Lat – 5901 S
Long – 06503 W

by: Ben and Tara

____________________________________________

Departure to Antarctica

10th March, 2010

Another day starts with breakfast looking out over one of the most spectacular views in the world. A semi-circle of snow-tipped mountains surrounding the beagle channel is a breathtaking start the day.

With more leadership sessions, this time breaking out into groups of five, gives members a chance to get to know each other better. We work on what we hope to put in and get out of this incredible opportunity.

A safety briefing from Adrian ‘Jumper’ Cross, instills the fear of God into us to ensure a safe journey and return for everyone. The reality of what we’re about to do, and the potential dangers of drowning/freezing/leopard seal attack in Antarctic waters starts to set in.

Finally we walk through port customs and meet our ship. Walking up the gangway three at a time, it finally feels real. We’re going to Antarctica. We’re about to converge on the bottom of the world from each of its corners and work together to preserve Antarctica. It feels incredible to be a part of it.

Once on the ship, the Academic Ioffe, we get sorted into the cabins that will be home for the next ten days of ice and foaming seas. The lifeboat drills sees our expedition leader harshly berating those of us who didn’t take it seriously enough and stand foolishly in jeans and cotton tee shirts. “Next time you hear that alarm it’s not a drill” he warns “you will be going to sea in the southern ocean, get real or die” The idea of bobbing around at sea in a sealed time capsule filled with people is not a treasured one, but it reminds us again of what we’re doing, and that on expedition in Antarctica, nothing is certain and safety procedures are critical.

More safety and expedition briefings are followed by the unique story of Robert Swan and his North and South Pole expeditions. As Robert shows us through his story, it dawns on us that the impossible is possible. It’s a message the world needs as we face the challenge of preserving human life on the planet.

Tamara DiMattina 54°48′44″S 68°17′42″W.

____________________________________________

Ushuaia Snapshot

8th March, 2010

Ushuaia swelters in uncharacteristically hot weather as team members commence the first of coming trials: the Martial Glacier. The 4 hour hike can be a serious challenge for inexperienced walkers, but this is exactly the point. Antarctica is an unforgiving wilderness that will not take prisoners. The hike tests the gear, resolve and most importantly teamwork of the participants before the proverbial deep end on the continent of ice. After the hike leadership workshops spearheaded by Robert Swan and the leadership program set the tone for the expedition. A world where climate change is tackled head on with courage and vigor.

 ____________________________________________

Getting on board and ready for Drake's Passage...

6th of March, 2010

Just came back from the captain's briefing before we will enter our ship, the Akademik Ioffe this afternoon.

We will pass the Drake's Passage tomorrow and the most important fact is: it has the highest average wave height of any water body on the planet.

The weatherforecast currently predicts winds of 30 knots, and should be okay.

For an idea of the Drake's Passage, see:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jld5pIUKhCE
___________________________________________

Akademik Ioffe

Bolster boys arrived in Ushuaia!

5th of March, 2010

Four hours of flying and we are now in the most southern city in the world.

We receive a warm welcome by the 2041-team at the small airstrip of Ushuaia and went right into our hotel for our meeting with Robert, and discussed our leadership program for the trip.

First activity this afternoon: get all our gear checked by the experts...

 _________________________________________

Getting all stuff on board...

5th of March, 2010

After a short night in Buenos Aires, we're checking in for the last flight in our trip. As luggage restrictions are seriously in the way of what we intend to take, we decide to carry all heavy stuff in our pockets.

Ever worn a coat weighing over 12 kg?

____________________________________________

Preparation of all gear

1st of March, 2010

As the team will depart in 3 days, final checks are being made on all equipment. Staying warm and dry is priority number one on Antarctica.

Current challenge is how to bring all gear, as our local flight from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia does only allow 15 kg of luggage maximum...

Click here for the expedition packlist...
____________________________________________